How To Make Red Oak Look Like White Oak

Q: What stain color works best to make red oak look like white oak?

While there are many options, the best mix we've found is: 1 part Varathane Aged Wheat + 2 parts Varathane Antique White + 2 parts mineral spirits.

Q: Should I bleach red oak before staining to make it look like white oak?

Bleaching is not recommended. The stain recipe above does an excellent job of achieving the natural white oak tone, making bleaching unnecessary and often inconsistent.

Q: Will the grain look different than white oak?

Yes, though only slightly. Red oak has more open, pronounced grain, while white oak has tighter grain. Stain can make red oak resemble white oak in color, but it won’t completely duplicate the grain pattern.

Q: Do I need a wood conditioner before staining red oak?

No. Most professionals do not use wood conditioner. Instead, they open or close the pores through sanding and stain immediately afterward. This pro method produces more consistent results.

Q: Can I use a water-based stain to get a white oak look?

Yes. Water-based stains work very well because they don’t add amber tones and keep the finish lighter. Just be prepared to lightly sand after the first coat since water-based stains raise the grain.

Q: How many coats of stain should I apply?

Stains are designed for a single coat. Allow the stain to fully absorb and then wipe off the excess. If more color correction is needed, use a light toner or glaze instead of a full second coat.

Q: What topcoat should I use to maintain a white-oak finish?

General Finishes High Performance, available in multiple sheens, is an excellent choice. For a slightly warmer finish, their Arm-R-Seal is a great alternative.

Q: Is it easier to use a white oak stain or a white oak hardwax oil?

Hardwax oils with natural or white pigments are easy to apply and create a natural European white oak look. They're great for furniture but require periodic maintenance and are not ideal for high-wear areas like kitchens.

Corbin Clay
Jun 15, 2023
5 min read

Updated: Nov 16

With white oak being so popular these days, it has quickly become one of the most expensive hardwoods in America. While switching to maple or cherry could be a money-saving option, using red oak will achieve the exact same beautiful grain pattern as white oak. We just need a special stain to mute the orange and pink, and create that soft white oak finish we've all fallen in love with.

(Design and photo credit Studio McGee)

Let's first give credit where credit is due: we got this original stain recipe from Natalie Park at @parkplaceabode on Instagram (give her a follow!). While we're not generally a fan of DIY stains, we are also completely aware that having access to, or the budget for a highly-skilled finisher isn't always an option for a lot of homeowners. Unfortunately, a lot of us get stuck having to figure all this out on our own, with little to no help from the builder or painter.

So, we'll take what Natalie created and build on it to combine the best of both worlds: a DIY-friendly color formula available at most hardware stores, some pointers for creating a very even stain, and the durability of a professional-grade protective topcoat that will ensure decades of maintenance free use. Let's get started!

The Secret Recipe

By mixing and reducing off-the-shelf stains, Natalie found a perfect recipe to both mute the pink and bring out the warm tan we all love with oak.

A photograph showing the results of a mixture of off-the-shelf oak stains.

All the stains are Varathane and available at most hardware stores. First combine, 1 part Aged Wheat + 2 parts Antique White + 2 parts mineral spirits. This will create a "watery-sage green color". Even if it's not the perfect color for your project, this is at least an excellent starting point:

A screenshot from a video. The caption says "The green tones will neutralize out the pink tones".

(screen shot from Natalie's video)

Now, let's take all this a step further: A lot of oak cabinet doors have solid frames (the stiles and rails) and a veneer center panel. Additionally, we see a lot of color variation in oak, white oak especially. While wood conditioner can help even out stain (most professionals don't use conditioner), there is a much better way to create consistent stain color and tone, and prevent the "picture framing" I'm sure you've seen: finish sanding.

Within an hour of staining, we want to sand all solid wood to #120 grit, and all veneer to #220 grit. This opens the pores of the solid wood, and closes the pores of the much-more-porous veneer. This is how we get even and consistent color on stained projects. Here is an excellent video from General Finishes' YouTube page detailing this process (though we like to use a random-orbit sander with a very fine scratch pattern).

Mute The Pink Undertones

A little insider baseball here: whenever you are trying to mute one color, you go to the opposite end of the color wheel. In this case, we're trying to mute the pink undertones of red oak and sometimes even white oak (Natalie original video is "how to make red oak look like white oak"). While simply "adding green" to mute pink, or "adding blue" to mute red isn't an option, we can find stains that have these colors already in them.

Protective Clear Topcoat

Once you've got the perfect color figured out, we then want to protect the wood. As we've discussed before, there is a big difference between water-based clear topcoat, and solvent-based clear topcoat. Even on stained projects, solvent-based can still add an amber/orange hue and continue to move the otherwise-perfect color you created. This is why I would recommend using a water-based topcoat. Generally, if you use an oil-based stain, you'll want to use a solvent-based topcoat.

Fortunately, General Finishes High Performance water-based topcoat can be used over oil and solvent-based stains, maintaining the perfect stained-only color.

A photograph of General Finishes' water-based, high performance satin topcoat.

This is the best brush-able clear topcoat we're aware of, and has the adhesion to work with any stain underneath (and available on Amazon if not available to you locally).

A Good Starting Point

(Design and photo credit Amanda Teal)

Even if Natalie's stain formula isn't perfect for your project, she came up with an excellent starting point. Tweaking with a bit more Antique White, a bit more Aged Wheat, reduce more, reduce less, all easily done to create your perfect shade.

FAQs: How to Stain Red Oak to Look Like White Oak

1. Can red oak really be stained to look like white oak?

Yes. With the right prep and stain selection, red oak can closely mimic the light, neutral tone of white oak. The key is choosing a stain that counteracts red oak’s natural pink undertones with a little green.

2. What stain color works best to make red oak look like white oak?

While there are lots of options, the absolute best we've found is the following: 1 part Varathane Aged Wheat + 2 parts Varathane Antique White + 2 parts mineral spirits.

3. How do I prevent red tones from showing through the stain?

Using a stain with green in it will naturally counter pink and red undertones.

4. Should I bleach red oak before staining to make it look like white oak?

I'm not a big fan of bleaching. The stain recipe above does such a good job of achieving the popular natural white oak tone, bleaching is not necessary (and is often very inconsistent).

5. Will the grain look different than white oak?

Yes, though very slightly. Red oak has open, pronounced grain with occasional pinkish rays, while white oak has tighter grain. Stain can make red oak resemble white oak in color, but it won’t completely duplicate the grain pattern.

6. Do I need a wood conditioner before staining red oak?

No, it's better to do what the pros do. Most professionals do not use wood condition, rather opening or closing the pores of wood through sanding and staining immediately after (this is one of the biggest difference between pros and DIYers). Here is a video on the process!

7. Can I use a water-based stain to get a white oak look?

Absolutely. Water-based stains work well because they don’t add amber tones, and they keep the final color lighter. Just be prepared to lightly sand after the first coat, as water-based products raise the grain.

8. How many coats of stain should I apply?

Stains are designed to be one-coat only. You open the pores of the wood, let all the stain absorb, and then wipe off the excess. If the first coat doesn’t fully neutralize the red tones, use a light toner or glaze instead of a full second coat.

9. What topcoat should I use to maintain a white-oak finish?

We're big fans of General Finishes High Performance, available in many sheens. If you're wanting a bit more warmth, then we recommend their Arm-R-Seal.

10. Is it easier to use a white oak stain or a white oak hardwax oil?

Hardwax oils (like natural or white-pigment oils) are very popular because they produce a subtle, natural finish similar to European white oak. They’re easy to apply, so technically 'yes' it is easier, but they require periodic maintenance and aren't the best option in a high-wear area like a kitchen. For furniture, yes, they're often an excellent choice and considerably easier to apply!

The Value Of Expert Advice

After decades in the industry, we completely understand just how overwhelming this all can be. As a recent member said, "the biggest issue I had during my build was not knowing what I did not know, until it was too late".

Having a partner early in the process to help identify red flags, walk you through what the process should look like, and help vet the other professionals on your project is exactly why we created this community.

We're here to help you navigate this often stressful (and expensive!) process with free expert advice in our Ask A Cabinetmaker Facebook group: